We went in to
San Gimignano for time on our own. It’s an old, steep, walled town with many
towers and cobbled streets and alleyways.
Sara Dondoli explained the production of gelato, specifically the world-champion gelato made by her family, right here, using organic local products. Larry & I then made our way into the beautiful old
church on the Piazza Duomo. Its interior is covered with frescos, representing stories from the Old and New Testaments, all created by the artist who taught Michelangelo. We then made our way farther down the hill, to a
nice restaurant with outdoor tables under awnings, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch. Back up in the main area, we waited in line at Gelateri Dondoli to sample several flavours of their award-winning gelato. It really was refreshing. One of the flavours had been created for a visit by Michelle Obama, but she had to cancel the visit. We thought we should let her know that she’d really missed a treat. We then worked our way back to the bus parking area, which was not simple – there were twists and turns and steep slopes. We were in lots of time, so I went into the local co-op to buy a couple of bananas, since I’ve been feeling a lack of potassium. Then we had a couple hours to relax at our hotel. The evening was spent at
Fattoria San Donato, a winery near San Gimignano. We learned about the wines they produce and sat down to a 4-course meal: an antipasti buffet, spinach ravioli, mixed grill with cabbage salad, and Holy Wine with biscotti. All accompanied by lots of Chianti and Vernaccia (a dry white wine).
By the end of the meal, it had become quite jolly around the table. On the bus travelling back to the hotel, we sang along to some terrific music. Enzo topped it all off by backing the bus up the long narrow driveway. Bravo!
As we drove north from San Gimignano, the landscape changed and we were in different kind of beauty.
After a quick break at a service area, we drove into Pisa.
The city is understandably very crowded, and bus parking is quite a distance from the historic area, so we boarded a kind of train on wheels to get there. Annelies had given us a great history of the tower and surrounding area – the Miracle Square. For many reasons, the tower should have collapsed or been destroyed long ago, but now has been stabilized and should be fine for the next 300 years. We enjoyed lunch at an outdoor restaurant and watched the crowds photographing each other “holding up the tower”. Some were very creative. Back on the bus we continued through many tunnels into a more rugged landscape, catching glimpses of the Mediterranean along the way, and eventually arriving at a dock in Santa Margherita Ligure, where we boarded an excursion boat to Portofino What a beautiful area! We sat at an outdoor table and ordered drinks. The server asked if we had any allergies and I told him mine. Soon we had an array of snacks – some for me, some for Larry and some to share. Immediately, the server said to me, “I’m not sure about the almonds, don’t eat them. I’m checking.” Soon he was back with the assurance that the almonds with rosemary were fine for me. What great service! Back in Santa Margherita, we checked into our hotel. It was when we were unpacking that I realized I had left things in the safe back in Villa San Paolo. Annalies immediately went to work to solve the problem and after several phone calls and emails, our stuff was retrieved by the hotel staff and we’d arranged for it to be sent here in the care of another couple who were catching up to us the next day. Phew! Many thanks to everyone involved in this recovery, particularly Annelies. Over dinner, we celebrated Ellie’s birthday with cake.
Photos of the day. Click to enlarge
Wednesday, May 14 - Cinque Terre
We set out after breakfast for the Cinque Terre – 5 villages spread over 15 km. of the rugged Mediterranean coastline.
We took our coach to La Spezia, then climbed down steep paths to the town centre. We were stunned by the fact that on these precipitous slopes, crops were growing and people living.
Dry stone walls lined much of the path. Our local guide, Amelia, explained the conservation methods used in the area and led us into the town. Many in the group then went farther, down to the water and up a switchback path on the hillside. We stopped at the water’s edge, then enjoyed people-watching from a shaded bench, next to an amazing display of pansies. There are many school groups around, because school ends in about 2 weeks for the 3-month summer break and this is field trip time. We boarded the train to our next stop, Varnazza, where we saw a very protected fishing cove and more steep terraces.We boarded a large boat for the trip to the next village, where there were amazing cacti growing and a WWII bunker. We enjoyed a seafood lunch, then wandered through the town. Larry relaxed over a beer or two, while I explored a bit, then we caught the train back to Santa Margherita, where Enzo waited with the coach to return us to the hotel. There, we were reunited with our lost safe contents and the lovely couple who brought them to us, and we retired to our room for a rest. After a while, we were ready to venture out to explore Santa Margherita. We started with a visit to the public beach, which we understood was open 24 hours a day. However, we were told to get out, because the gate closed at 7 and it was 7:20. “The gate is open”, we replied. Get out anyway, was the message, and the gate was closed behind us. So we didn’t get to put our feet into the Mediterranean. Sigh. We continued on to the harbour area, found a bar, and enjoyed drinks and snacks. We had thought to eat some of our snack food in our room, but there was no need. Lovely day, and bed calls.
Click for all the pics of the day
Thursday, May 15 - Lago Maggiore
The ride out of Santa Margherita Ligure began with the tight blind turns and narrow streets of the town, but soon we were on the highway. Scenery was scarce, though, since much of the time we were in tunnels. Eventually, we emerged into the
Piedmont area – rolling countryside at the foot of the mountains. Much of the time it could be mistaken for the 401 in southern Ontario, if you ignored the majestic mountains.
We passed rice fields, where they raise the rice for risotto and other fields and wooded areas, always with the mountains in sight. We soon began catching glimpses of Lago Maggiore, our destination for the day. Annelies explained the geology of the region, where there are granite and marble quarries, as well as beautiful lakes, mountains, fields and woods. The beauty just keeps on coming. Enzo delivered us to a dock on the lake and we were transported in our own boat to Isola Bella, an astonishing estate that has been in the Borromean family for hundreds of years. We toured with a local guide, then wandered the gardens, encountering white peacocks and peahens, and stopping for a drink and lunch. We checked into the palatial Grand Hotel Dino, rested for a while, then took the boat back out to Isola dei Pescatori for dinner. On the way back, we saw an amazing sunset. Several of us had heard about an underground art gallery that connects 2 hotels, so we wandered through that, and called it a (great!) day.All photos of day - click to open
Breakfast in this fancy hotel lived up to its surroundings, as we prepared for an early departure. It’s a long drive to our destination in the Dolomites, but fortunately these Insight Vacations coaches are very comfortable, with widely-spaced seats, so there was quite a bit of dozing. Everything here is very green, but we’ve been fortunate not to have any rain. We had a couple of breaks at service centres, for coffee and lunch. At the lunch stop, a very large group of young people, one of them dressed as a dinosaur, were apparently celebrating an upcoming wedding. The layout of this place was confusing, and we were nearly late – let’s face it, were late – getting back to the bus, but someone who was actually lost was a bit behind us. We don’t want to be the couple who always makes life difficult.
Mid-afternoon brought us to a winery that produces high-end, genuine Prosecco. We were shown around and told the story of the winery and of Prosecco. So many regulations! They export to the US but only to Quebec in Canada. But it’s so good and we had 2 glasses each, along with some small snacks. The drive into the Dolomites was another very challenging one for Enzo, but he’s extremely skilled and earned a round of applause when we pulled up at our hotel. This one is much plainer and very much more modern than last night’s and several of us commented it was more to our taste. This is a gorgeous, rugged area, with steep mountains and a bit of snow at the heights. We saw the old ski jump from the 1956 Olympics. Everything is being worked on to prepare for the 2026 Olympics that will be held here in February. After a rest, we enjoyed dinner in the dining room and everyone was ready to settle for the night.
Link to all photos of the day. Click for larger and to save
Saturday, May 17 - Cortina and the Dolomites
Happy Birthday Chloe! Breakfast here had the same energy as Après Ski at Blue Mountain. The hotel seems to cater to hikers, cyclists and skiers as well as tour groups. We had a leisurely departure and rolled out onto the steep, narrow, twisty roads on our grand tour of
the Dolomites with our local guide, Monica. She explained the nature and history of the area, which was part of Austria until World War One, when it became part of Italy. The indigenous people here are the Ladino and are still a large part of the population of the area. We stopped at the site of a long (29-month, 1915-1917) stand-off between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies, where they were cold, hungry and in constant danger. There were explosions, avalanches, rockfalls and fighting. Eventually, the Italians were overcome and retreated, which begs the question of how they gained possession of the area. We took a break for apple strudel and hot drinks at a mountain hostel/restaurant that has been in the same family for generations. Larry and I missed the museum visit, because we needed to go to a pharmacy that was closing soon, so we were dropped nearby by Enzo and Annelies guided us and translated for us. We certainly appreciate the kind care we are receiving. We walked back through the town centre to our meeting point, stopping at the large town cooperative store. Soon after we arrived, there was an announcement we didn’t understand and everyone started leaving. It was closing, so we left too, and went to the meeting place. Soon the bus arrived with everyone else. Larry stayed on board and I joined the walking tour. We heard about the various buildings, including the hotel where Hemingway stayed and his favourite café – I’ll bet it wasn’t coffee he was drinking there, though. After another thrilling, beautiful drive, we came toLago di Misurina, where we had a late lunch and a walk along the shore. As we drove back to the hotel, it began to snow, through it did not stay on the ground. After a bit of a break, the whole group met in the bar for drinks and snacks before going our separate ways for the evening.
Sunday, May 18
We left the Dolomites, enjoying more beautiful mountain scenery, until suddenly we were on
flat land and the motorway. One quick coffee stop and before noon we were unloading the bus and wishing Enzo good-bye as the bus transport is over. We boarded 2 water taxis and had a very short walk across San Marco Square and to our hotel, where we were fortunate to immediately get into our rooms. Larry and I set out early for our next rendezvous and had time for a drink before the rest arrived. We boarded a boat and travelled to Murano Island, home of the famous glass-makers.We very much enjoyed a demonstration of glass-blowing (a decorated storage bottle) and solid glass work
(a unicorn – very fancy). The whole process was explained and prices (high!) named, then we were turned loose in the showrooms. So much beautiful glass! We continued by boat to Burano, a fishing island, with brightly-coloured houses and lots of shops and restaurants, where we enjoyed a delicious early dinner and some strolling. We rejoined our boat and returned to Venice and our hotel, Splendid Venice. I think this might be the most comfortable hotel of the trip. The room is pretty and seems to have everything we could want.
Wow! Did we get a great taste of Venice this morning! First, we had a 90-minute Hidden Venice walking tour of quiet back streets with Anna, our irrepressible local guide.
She was very informative and also very humourous. She explained the architecture and the challenges of living here. The population has dropped precipitously in the historic area, as more comfortable, convenient and affordable housing became available nearby. She described the very communal way of living – including the Venetian official pastime of getting together to criticize tourists.After a short break in St. Mark’s Square, we boarded several gondolas for a Gondola Serenade through smaller canals and a bit on the Grand Canal, with musicians in the boat of those celebrating big birthdays, but all of us could hear them. It was magical. We were resting in our hotel by noon.A while later, I went out to explore nearby streets, but they were chaotic and I didn’t want to get lost, so I was back very soon.
Our last evening together as a group began with a walk through St. Mark’s Square to the water’s edge, where we boarded 3 water taxis to cruise the Grand Canal. When we disembarked, we gathered for a drink on the square, where a musical group was playing. Then we had a delicious dinner, with lots of joyful conversation and recollections of the last 12 days. What a great trip this was. Annelies didn’t let any detail escape her attention. Enzo was a terrific driver. All the members of the group took care of one another, and watched out for each other, which we greatly appreciated. Sorry to say good-bye, but looking forward to being home.See the videos below
Gondola Serenade Videos
Reluctant Janice & Tom and Sonia
Tuesday, May 20 - Trip Summary
Sorry for the mess below; it is a bug in Googles Blog system,
Sending Larry’s legs some love. Those cobbles can be nasty.
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